Cautious optimism is on the minds of many merchants this year, according to manufacturers and brands. Those sentiments aren’t exactly shocking given that the U.S. is heading into an election year, which are notoriously unpredictable; the nation is divided on who will win the election, what new policies they might implement, and how they will affect small business.

“All the news about tough socioeconomic times didn’t impact the independent jeweler much in the fourth quarter of 2023,” insists Cora Lee Colaizzi, marketing director, Quality Gold (QG). “I think the end consumer enjoyed returning to Main Street after the last few years of COVID and restrictions. People are shopping bricks-and-mortar stores.”

Quality Gold

Her colleague and national sales director, Jeff Wynkoop, agrees. “People want to get out and shop,” he observes. Plus, retailers tell him that foot traffic in stores is higher than before the pandemic. “In my meetings, our retailers are excited and continue to source new merchandise to show their customers,” he says.

To keep the momentum going, Wynkoop advises retailers to stay focused on their branding and social media pages.

“Buying metrics and analytics have shown us that younger buyers are doing their research online but coming to brick-and-mortar retail stores to get an experience when they purchase,” he says. Take advantage of the traffic and give the consumer an experience they will remember and want to tell others about.”

       Ostbye

And while QG merchants are enjoying client face time in stores, Ostbye clients express opposite concerns. Among them? Online sales competition, how to continually drive traffic into stores, “and keep them true to your business,” says marketing manager Theresa Namie.

Differences aside, most say that 2024 has started off well. “Expectations are focused on maintaining flat or slightly above last year,” explains Namie.

An interesting bright spot in the eyes of Lachish Awad, manager of the customer service department for the Elegant Collection for Jasani USA: post-holiday sales are improving. “Most of our clients have exhausted their inventories and are placing orders with us,” he reveals.

As far as what is selling—beyond karat-gold staples—think colored gemstones and diamond-accented Mother’s Day gifts. “There’s a notable demand for precious color gemstones,” observes Surbhi Jain, marketing director of Shefi Diamonds. She points to her brand’s Majestic Gem Collection of baguette-cut colored stone crosses and birthstone collections as proof. These, she continues, “have been warmly embraced by retailers and serve as the ideal gift for any occasion throughout the year.”

Shefi Diamonds

Birthstone jewelry moves for Ostbye’s clients, too, who also buy wide gold diamond fashion bands and celestial, ribbon, and leaf motifs. Other fast sellers include heart and cross pendants, yellow gold bridal styles (including ring wraps and inserts), stackables, signets, and medallions. “They are great personal gifts to give,” says Theresa Namie, marketing manager.

“The demand for 14k yellow gold has been high for the last few years after so many years of 14k white gold dominating,” observes Colaizzi. “When the gold price is high, yellow gold owns the center stage in the gold jewelry segment. If COVID proved anything to us, it’s that jewelry is timeless and pandemic-proof!”

 

 

Considering that the Richline Group (RG) is a vertically integrated presence throughout the precious materials supply chain, from manufacturing to marketing, its 21-year-old May Is Gold Month (MIGM) initiative makes much sense. Gold is part of the DNA of its properties and of those firms they serve.

Shefi Diamonds

Casting a spotlight on karat-gold jewelry is an obvious goal for the jewelry conglomerate, but another “is to ensure the retailers can make the most of MIGM by tailoring their promotions to fit their brand and customers’ expectations,” says Elaine Klopman, director of marketing.

Many in the industry, including Klopman, know that MIGM’s momentum certainly lasts longer than the month itself.

“Promoting gold jewelry goes beyond May,” she continues. “We are always looking for creative ways to highlight the gold category, working with our clients all year on different sales and marketing campaigns.”

Shefi Diamonds’ Surbhi Jain, marketing director, agrees.

“MIGM can be a fantastic promotional opportunity in the jewelry industry,” she says. “Capitalizing on this theme can enhance our brand visibility and potentially boost sales.”

Quality Gold

And given the collective commercial power that MIGM partners provide, it’s not surprising that non-RG partners benefit as well. Just like generic diamond ads from the De Beers Group aid the entire jewelry industry, so, too, do MIGM promotions. Call it riding on RG’s coattails or just flat out effective, MIGM is an approaching calendar date that no one should ignore.

Quality Gold, Inc. needs no convincing. “Gold is a 365-day product,” confirms Cora Lee Colaizzi, marketing director, whose clients include it in promotions year-round—not just Mother’s Day and in May.

Marketing materials highlighting basics, religious jewelry, and best sellers are available for active clients on QGold.com. Additionally, a resource section on the site “contains templates for digital banners, social media posts, and print concepts that the retailer can edit to use,” Colaizzi notes. Meanwhile, trendier products within its Leslie’s and HERCO brands also have their own marketing materials.

At Ostbye, marketing manager Theresa Namie and her team share product photography and reels with retailers to use on their social media platforms. And this year, bold gold designs are a key component of their merchandising mix considering what she calls a “resurgence of yellow gold in 2023.” May is perfectly timed with some of the firm’s newest releases, including a new gold bridal collection “just in time for MIGM,” Namie adds.

Shefi Diamonds also sees a great opportunity for yellow gold in 2024 and will also capitalize on MIGM through email newsletters to its clients and time-sensitive promotions and discounts. Social media posts highlighting gold jewelry will include relevant hashtags such as “#MayIsGoldMonth and #GoldenMay,” according to Jain.

Ostbye

Finally, Heather Brown, vice president of content and editorial for The Kingswood Company, a maker of cleaning products for fine jewelry, encourages retailers to offer information about how to care for gold jewelry, such as soaking pieces in a specially formulated solution and buffing it with a polishing cloth after it dries. “Offering clients useful jewelry care and cleaning information allows them to enjoy their gold jewelry, both new and old, for a lifetime,” she says.

Color evokes passion and drives many a jewelry sale. That’s why retailers must know the new hues their clients are seeing, and there’s no better time than now to get acquainted.

That’s because at the tail end of each fourth quarter, the PANTONE Color Institute debuts its Color of the Year, a key marketing tool. “Retailers should be using color psychology, along with the PANTONE Color of the Year, to boost their color sales,” insists Monica McDaniel, vice president of Chatham, Inc.

Whether that particular color (Peach Fuzz in 2024) ends up in new jewelry creations or not, color should play a role in store offerings simply for the joyful diversity it provides in a sea of diamond designs. Even Shefi Diamonds likes to capitalize on the momentum PANTONE provides—look to its Peach Blossom Morganite collection as an example—while Lali Jewelry’s Perilynn Glasner, marketing and design director, uses color blocking as an in-store tool to help guide sales.

“Find out what colors the client is attracted to and go from there,” she urges.

Read on to learn more about how manufacturers are leaning into color for 2024 success.

PANTONE’s New Hue

Color 13-1023 of the Year 2024 Pantone Peach Fuzz Poster

Every December, as many eagerly stock up on presents for loved ones, PANTONE, the color authority, gifts the world an extra-special lagniappe called the Color of the Year. The hue aims to excite consumers about the directional force that color can have and is seen across many categories—from clothes to interior design to accessories. For 2024 the shade is Peach Fuzz, and jewelry manufacturers are hurriedly mapping out the ways they can help retail clients offer appropriate merchandise.

Chatham, Inc.

“Color is a powerful psychological tool that should be used by retailers to convert sales,” says Monica McDaniel, vice president, Chatham, Inc. “Different gemstone colors evoke specific emotions and associations. Understanding this can help market and sell gemstones more effectively.”

PANTONE tells us that Peach Fuzz “is a velvety gentle peach tone whose all-embracing spirit enriches mind, body, and soul 
 capturing our desire to nurture ourselves and others.”

Makers agree with the choice, calling it a good one for all the uncertainty the world is currently experiencing.

McDaniel says that it’s “human nature to seek out things that bring us hope and joy. With its warm and inviting tone, Peach Fuzz is an endearing color that accomplishes just that!”

Valerie Fletcher, vice president of design and product development for ODI, says the Color of the Year “influences everything from textiles to interior design to graphic design and 
 consumers’ jewelry choices. The Pantone color trend report can be a useful tool when choosing product for your store.”

Shefi Diamonds

Surbhi Jain agrees. “It’s crucial to emphasize its role in driving sales, enhancing brand image, and connecting with the ever-evolving tastes of consumers,” says the marketing director for Shefi Diamonds. “Encouraging retailers to embrace this annual color trend positions them as forward-thinking and responsive to the dynamic landscape of design.”

In terms of product, Peach Fuzz offers many opportunities to match its color and complement others. For starters, nearly every firm interviewed calls morganite a near perfect match for the PANTONE color.

Shefi Diamonds has a Peach Blossom brand featuring morganite in both bridal and fashion styles, and its Cinnamon Dulce collection pairs morganite with champagne diamonds, creating a “harmonious combination,” says Jain.

ODI

Lab-grown gemstone maker Chatham is well prepared for Peach Fuzz requests given its three different shades of champagne-color lab-grown sapphire, one of which has “richly saturated peach dominant undertones,” notes McDaniel. In Chatham’s upper-end Legacy Collection, lab-grown champagne sapphires are set in 18k rose gold. In fact, Chatham even planned to expand offerings in this material before the PANTONE announcement was made.

“We started to see an increased demand for this color preference since this past summer of 2023,” McDaniel continues. It’s a similar story at Imperial, which debuted rose gold, morganite, and freshwater pearls—peachy pink and white—together long before the Color of the Year was a consideration.

They did so because it was pretty, and now Kathy Grenier, vice president of business development, wonders if Peach Fuzz will “reignite interest” in its morganite selections. Regardless, sharing trend information like the Color of the Year “helps establish Imperial as a source retailers can count on not only for pearls,” she explains.

Imperial

Royal Chain, too, is banking on the appeal of rose gold and white freshwater pearls, and is positioning that look as an ideal companion for Peach Fuzz–color gems and accessories.

And while Lali Jewelry’s Perilynn Glasner, marketing and design director, will use Peach Fuzz as a backdrop on social media to make her company’s SKUs—some with complementary shades of aquamarine, blue topaz, and green amethyst—pop, others are keen to pair last year’s shade with this new one.

Fletcher is among the enthused. “Because this year’s color falls right next to last year’s Viva Magenta and almost directly across from 2022’s Very Peri, Peach Fuzz blends nicely with either one,” she explains. “So, if you’re someone who buys into the color every year, you now have some great stacking opportunities.”

Color to Wear

While there’s no doubt that Americans love their bright white diamonds, nothing else elicits the emotional response of color and colored gemstones. Makers and merchants who embrace color know its appeal, which is why a slew of new collections are putting a variety of shades in the spotlight.

“Color is a tremendous opportunity for retailers,” maintains Monica McDaniel, vice president, Chatham, Inc. “Color creates higher margins and expands your bottom line. It also creates options for your customer. Data shows that by exposing your customers to an assortment of color possibilities, custom sales increase exponentially.” 

Chatham

Beyond morganite encapsulating PANTONE’s 2024 Peach Fuzz, jewelry manufacturers have rainbow-like assortments to cater to every taste. At ODI, smoky quartz is set in yellow gold to complement neutrals, earth tones, greens, and metallics, making it a gem with unmatched diversity.

“Smoky quartz can be dark and moody or warm and natural,” says Valerie Fletcher, vice president of design and product development. “It’s great for night or day, and it’s affordable in larger sizes.”

Other collections that define ODI’s new offerings include multicolor bezel-set gemstone bracelets like the ones seen on Taylor Swift during her New Eras concert tour. Another is ODI’s LoveFire Greenland Ruby Collection and Polar Pink Greenlandic Sapphire Collection, both complete with displays, marketing materials, and books and videos “to help the sales team and the consumers better understand the rarity, provenance and value of the gems,” adds Fletcher.

ODI

Imperial’s new color-rich jewels feature enamel and lab-created blue and pink sapphire and lab-created emerald. It features the lab-growns with pearls in sterling silver offerings to “do something exploratory without a huge investment,” says Kathy Grenier, vice president of business development.

New jewels from Royal Chain feature citrine and mother-of-pearl, and at Shefi Diamonds, aquamarine takes center stage in its Aquabella Collection. At Chatham, Inc., lab-grown chrysoberyl and lab-grown ParaĂ­ba-colored spinel debuted in the last year.

Royal Chain

“Lab-grown chrysoberyl is a stunning mint green that pairs nicely in both white and yellow gold,” says McDaniel. “Lab-grown Paraíba-colored spinel is a striking seafoam blue, reminiscent of the gorgeous Paraíba tourmaline color.”

This year, more new colors drop at Chatham, including a lab-grown purple sapphire added to its loose stone color menu.

Shefi

“We have received a great number of requests for purple sapphire in recent years, McDaniel continues. “We will be adding this new color to our stock items list in all the traditional shapes and sizes.”  Chatham’s lab-grown champagne sapphire, meanwhile, will be incorporated into new designs for spring-summer 2024.

“Styles will be an expansion of our latest collections, which exhibit clean lines, bezel settings, textured metals, and some geometrics,” adds McDaniel. “Shapes will include emerald cut, pear, round, as well as some of Chatham’s exclusive cuts like the onion and flame.”

At Lali Jewelry, trunk shows are a great place for the brand to test new options and let clients dive into all available products and discover their own preferences. But heed this tip, insists Perilynn Glasner, marketing and design director: Never assume what the customer would like. “Show them more than what they asked for, and you’ll be surprised to see what piques their interest,” she says.

Color-Blocking 101

Couture runways aren’t the only places where color-blocking occurs—it happens, too, in new jewelry collections and is an important concept for jewelers to understand.

Color-blocking pairs opposite colors together for fashion victories (think Mondrian and Stephen Burrows). Fine jewelers need the savvy to confidently suggest colored gemstone and enamel jewels to clients who enter stores in the season’s latest hues. So, when merchants are facing shoppers in Peach Fuzz–color T-shirts, he or she can quickly offer complementary champagne diamonds or, on the other end of the spectrum, minty-green garnets or chrysoprase for an ĂŒber Miami Vice vibe.

LALI Jewels

This is valuable information, maintains Monica McDaniel, vice president, Chatham, Inc.

“Anytime jewelry and fashion intersect, you find the ultimate self-expression,” she notes. “Retailers need to understand trends and how to use color in their conversations with the client. Guiding and offering up suggestions sets you apart from other jewelers.”

It’s also meaningful because “it creates an organized shopping experience for the customer,” observes Perilynn Glasner, marketing and design director for Lali Jewelry. During in-store events, her sales teams use color-blocking techniques to showcase collections effectively.

Chatham, Inc., spends a lot of time training its sales force on color lore, symbolism, and how to create a wardrobe around color choices.

“We tell retailers all the time, search engines can show product faster than you can,” says McDaniel. “If the client is inside your store, it’s because they are seeking out your expertise. Furthermore, they want to touch and feel the merchandise.”

Carla Corporation

According to Surbhi Jain, marketing director of Shefi Diamonds, color-blocking also touches on tonal hues within the same color. Valerie Fletcher, vice president of design and product development at ODI, agrees, adding that color blocking “doesn’t always have to be ‘opposites attract.’” Instead, “It can be two similar shades that create an ombrĂ© effect,” she says. “The Fall-Winter 2024 collections of designers like Fendi, Prabal Gurung, and Carolina Herrera use bright color blocking, while Prada does a more muted look.”

In ODI’s jewelry, this translates to two-stone rings featuring a pink tourmaline and a tanzanite, or a red ruby and a pink sapphire.

“Depending on the person, color can be something to be collected and worn in bunches, or it can be intimidating,” Fletcher continues. “For the wary consumer, start with a neutral—like smoky quartz—or a color that blends easily with their wardrobe. Then add larger and brighter pieces that pop.”

Carla Corporation has discovered that grouping like colored gemstone jewels together helps close sales. “It directs the customer’s attention to a specific showcase keeping them focused on the styles available and the task at hand,” offers Brian Fleming, senior vice president.

Royal Chain

More tips to sell color from Fleming include stocking and displaying price-point levels to accommodate a variety of budgets and displaying unique and classic styles together to allow staff to best parse options according to taste.

Shefi’s Jain, meanwhile, has this guidance to direct color sales: explore birthstone jewels, personalize with clients’ favorite colors, and embrace trends.

“Stay current by incorporating trends like the Pantone Color of the Year, appealing to customers with a penchant for fashionable choices,” she says.

Couture runways aren’t the only places where color-blocking occurs—it happens, too, in new jewelry collections and is an important concept for jewelers to understand.

Color-blocking pairs opposite colors together for fashion victories (think Mondrian and Stephen Burrows). Fine jewelers need the savvy to confidently suggest colored gemstone and enamel jewels to clients who enter stores in the season’s latest hues. So, when merchants are facing shoppers in Peach Fuzz–color T-shirts, he or she can quickly offer complementary champagne diamonds or, on the other end of the spectrum, minty-green garnets or chrysoprase for an ĂŒber Miami Vice vibe.

LALI Jewels

This is valuable information, maintains Monica McDaniel, vice president, Chatham, Inc.

“Anytime jewelry and fashion intersect, you find the ultimate self-expression,” she notes. “Retailers need to understand trends and how to use color in their conversations with the client. Guiding and offering up suggestions sets you apart from other jewelers.”

It’s also meaningful because “it creates an organized shopping experience for the customer,” observes Perilynn Glasner, marketing and design director for Lali Jewelry. During in-store events, her sales teams use color-blocking techniques to showcase collections effectively.

Chatham, Inc., spends a lot of time training its sales force on color lore, symbolism, and how to create a wardrobe around color choices.

“We tell retailers all the time, search engines can show product faster than you can,” says McDaniel. “If the client is inside your store, it’s because they are seeking out your expertise. Furthermore, they want to touch and feel the merchandise.”

Carla Corporation

According to Surbhi Jain, marketing director of Shefi Diamonds, color-blocking also touches on tonal hues within the same color. Valerie Fletcher, vice president of design and product development at ODI, agrees, adding that color blocking “doesn’t always have to be ‘opposites attract.’” Instead, “It can be two similar shades that create an ombrĂ© effect,” she says. “The Fall-Winter 2024 collections of designers like Fendi, Prabal Gurung, and Carolina Herrera use bright color blocking, while Prada does a more muted look.”

In ODI’s jewelry, this translates to two-stone rings featuring a pink tourmaline and a tanzanite, or a red ruby and a pink sapphire.

“Depending on the person, color can be something to be collected and worn in bunches, or it can be intimidating,” Fletcher continues. “For the wary consumer, start with a neutral—like smoky quartz—or a color that blends easily with their wardrobe. Then add larger and brighter pieces that pop.”

Carla Corporation has discovered that grouping like colored gemstone jewels together helps close sales. “It directs the customer’s attention to a specific showcase keeping them focused on the styles available and the task at hand,” offers Brian Fleming, senior vice president.

Royal Chain

More tips to sell color from Fleming include stocking and displaying price-point levels to accommodate a variety of budgets and displaying unique and classic styles together to allow staff to best parse options according to taste.

Shefi’s Jain, meanwhile, has this guidance to direct color sales: explore birthstone jewels, personalize with clients’ favorite colors, and embrace trends.

“Stay current by incorporating trends like the Pantone Color of the Year, appealing to customers with a penchant for fashionable choices,” she says.

While there’s no doubt that Americans love their bright white diamonds, nothing else elicits the emotional response of color and colored gemstones. Makers and merchants who embrace color know its appeal, which is why a slew of new collections are putting a variety of shades in the spotlight.

“Color is a tremendous opportunity for retailers,” maintains Monica McDaniel, vice president, Chatham, Inc. “Color creates higher margins and expands your bottom line. It also creates options for your customer. Data shows that by exposing your customers to an assortment of color possibilities, custom sales increase exponentially.” 

Chatham

Beyond morganite encapsulating PANTONE’s 2024 Peach Fuzz, jewelry manufacturers have rainbow-like assortments to cater to every taste. At ODI, smoky quartz is set in yellow gold to complement neutrals, earth tones, greens, and metallics, making it a gem with unmatched diversity.

“Smoky quartz can be dark and moody or warm and natural,” says Valerie Fletcher, vice president of design and product development. “It’s great for night or day, and it’s affordable in larger sizes.”

Other collections that define ODI’s new offerings include multicolor bezel-set gemstone bracelets like the ones seen on Taylor Swift during her New Eras concert tour. Another is ODI’s LoveFire Greenland Ruby Collection and Polar Pink Greenlandic Sapphire Collection, both complete with displays, marketing materials, and books and videos “to help the sales team and the consumers better understand the rarity, provenance and value of the gems,” adds Fletcher.

ODI

Imperial’s new color-rich jewels feature enamel and lab-created blue and pink sapphire and lab-created emerald. It features the lab-growns with pearls in sterling silver offerings to “do something exploratory without a huge investment,” says Kathy Grenier, vice president of business development.

New jewels from Royal Chain feature citrine and mother-of-pearl, and at Shefi Diamonds, aquamarine takes center stage in its Aquabella Collection. At Chatham, Inc., lab-grown chrysoberyl and lab-grown ParaĂ­ba-colored spinel debuted in the last year.

Royal Chain

“Lab-grown chrysoberyl is a stunning mint green that pairs nicely in both white and yellow gold,” says McDaniel. “Lab-grown Paraíba-colored spinel is a striking seafoam blue, reminiscent of the gorgeous Paraíba tourmaline color.”

This year, more new colors drop at Chatham, including a lab-grown purple sapphire added to its loose stone color menu.

“We have received a great number of requests for purple sapphire in recent years, McDaniel continues. “We will be adding this new color to our stock items list in all the traditional shapes and sizes.”  Chatham’s lab-grown champagne sapphire, meanwhile, will be incorporated into new designs for spring-summer 2024.

“Styles will be an expansion of our latest collections, which exhibit clean lines, bezel settings, textured metals, and some geometrics,” adds McDaniel. “Shapes will include emerald cut, pear, round, as well as some of Chatham’s exclusive cuts like the onion and flame.”

Shefi

At Lali Jewelry, trunk shows are a great place for the brand to test new options and let clients dive into all available products and discover their own preferences. But heed this tip, insists Perilynn Glasner, marketing and design director: Never assume what the customer would like. “Show them more than what they asked for, and you’ll be surprised to see what piques their interest,” she says.

 

Every December, as many eagerly stock up on presents for loved ones, PANTONE, the color authority, gifts the world an extra-special lagniappe called the Color of the Year. The hue aims to excite consumers about the directional force that color can have and is seen across many categories—from clothes to interior design to accessories. For 2024 the shade is Peach Fuzz, and jewelry manufacturers are hurriedly mapping out the ways they can help retail clients offer appropriate merchandise.

Chatham, Inc.

“Color is a powerful psychological tool that should be used by retailers to convert sales,” says Monica McDaniel, vice president, Chatham, Inc. “Different gemstone colors evoke specific emotions and associations. Understanding this can help market and sell gemstones more effectively.”

PANTONE tells us that Peach Fuzz “is a velvety gentle peach tone whose all-embracing spirit enriches mind, body, and soul 
 capturing our desire to nurture ourselves and others.”

Makers agree with the choice, calling it a good one for all the uncertainty the world is currently experiencing.

McDaniel says that it’s “human nature to seek out things that bring us hope and joy. With its warm and inviting tone, Peach Fuzz is an endearing color that accomplishes just that!”

Valerie Fletcher, vice president of design and product development for ODI, says the Color of the Year “influences everything from textiles to interior design to graphic design and 
 consumers’ jewelry choices. The Pantone color trend report can be a useful tool when choosing product for your store.”

Shefi Diamonds

Surbhi Jain agrees. “It’s crucial to emphasize its role in driving sales, enhancing brand image, and connecting with the ever-evolving tastes of consumers,” says the marketing director for Shefi Diamonds. “Encouraging retailers to embrace this annual color trend positions them as forward-thinking and responsive to the dynamic landscape of design.”

In terms of product, Peach Fuzz offers many opportunities to match its color and complement others. For starters, nearly every firm interviewed calls morganite a near perfect match for the PANTONE color.

Shefi Diamonds has a Peach Blossom brand featuring morganite in both bridal and fashion styles, and its Cinnamon Dulce collection pairs morganite with champagne diamonds, creating a “harmonious combination,” says Jain.

ODI

Lab-grown gemstone maker Chatham is well prepared for Peach Fuzz requests given its three different shades of champagne-color lab-grown sapphire, one of which has “richly saturated peach dominant undertones,” notes McDaniel. In Chatham’s upper-end Legacy Collection, lab-grown champagne sapphires are set in 18k rose gold. In fact, Chatham even planned to expand offerings in this material before the PANTONE announcement was made.

“We started to see an increased demand for this color preference since this past summer of 2023,” McDaniel continues. It’s a similar story at Imperial, which debuted rose gold, morganite, and freshwater pearls—peachy pink and white—together long before the Color of the Year was a consideration.

They did so because it was pretty, and now Kathy Grenier, vice president of business development, wonders if Peach Fuzz will “reignite interest” in its morganite selections. Regardless, sharing trend information like the Color of the Year “helps establish Imperial as a source retailers can count on not only for pearls,” she explains.

Imperial

Royal Chain, too, is banking on the appeal of rose gold and white freshwater pearls, and is positioning that look as an ideal companion for Peach Fuzz–color gems and accessories.

And while Lali Jewelry’s Perilynn Glasner, marketing and design director, will use Peach Fuzz as a backdrop on social media to make her company’s SKUs—some with complementary shades of aquamarine, blue topaz, and green amethyst—pop, others are keen to pair last year’s shade with this new one.

Fletcher is among the enthused. “Because this year’s color falls right next to last year’s Viva Magenta and almost directly across from 2022’s Very Peri, Peach Fuzz blends nicely with either one,” she explains. “So, if you’re someone who buys into the color every year, you now have some great stacking opportunities.”

America’s love of diamonds isn’t by accident. Mid-20th century marketing efforts from De Beers, including Its “A Diamond Is Forever” campaign and the two-months’ salary guideline for purchasing an engagement ring, have ensured that more than half of all fine jewelry sold in the U.S. features diamonds. Yet as popular as diamonds are, they’re not immune from challenges on the world stage. Two wars—Russia-Ukraine and Israel-Hamas—are affecting how manufacturers obtain and sell the gems, while lab-grown diamond manufacturing is the ultimate market disruptor, causing prices of both mined and lab-made diamonds to fluctuate wildly as of late. Below, we unpack the facts about these situations and offer a snapshot of the newest diamond jewels available to collectors.

Diamond Difficulties?

Two major diamond centers—Russia and Israel—are in the grip of turmoil for different reasons that are equally disturbing to international jewelry markets. Sanctions against Russia and a looming ban on Russian-origin diamonds exceeding 1 carat in size have forced firms to scrutinize their diamond sourcing while cut and polished diamonds out of Israel have sometimes faced delays.

Jasani

Diamond imports from Russia have been banned in the U.S. since 2022, though those cut and polished in other countries have still gotten through because of the substantial transformation clause set in place by the government. The goal of that measure was to give time to businesses to find new sources.

Recent plans from industry groups aim to carry out the wishes of nations belonging to the Group of Seven (G7), which are determined to ban Russian diamonds entirely. And in an early December meeting, G7 members revealed they would introduce “import restrictions on non-industrial diamonds, mined, processed, or produced in Russia, by January 1, 2024, followed by more phased restrictions on the import of Russian diamonds processed in third countries targeting March 1, 2024.”

Further, G7 members who import large volumes of rough diamonds must establish “a robust traceability-based verification and certification mechanism for rough diamonds within the G7 by September 1, 2024.”

Some big players in U.S. jewelry manufacturing have been fielding compliance inquiries from select clients.

                                                             Novell

“Many of our customers are insisting on stones which are not of Russian origin,” says Lachish Awad, manager of customer service at Jasani.

As a sightholder, KGS Jewels obtains most of its diamonds from De Beers’ sources, including a new manufacturing facility in Botswana. Richard Bachu, vice president of sales, says the Russia issue isn’t really affecting KGS’s business, though questions do periodically arise from clients. “They ask if we are in compliance to make sure they are protected,” he says.

For Shefi Diamonds, the Russia-origin question is even less of an issue. “The majority of the diamonds we use are sourced from Australia and then cut in India,” explains Surbhi Jain, head of marketing. “Therefore, the potential impact on our operations is somewhat mitigated by the diversified nature of our supply chain.”

ODI/Original Designs

And given that Novell “isn’t in the center stone business,” says sales manager Rick Mulholland—Novell makes wedding bands—both wars have had minimal impact on operations. Similarly, Awad, who sources from Israel, a hub for cutting important stones, is relieved that his business, too, hasn’t (yet) been affected.

According to some interviewees, bigger issues than these wars—if you can believe it—exist in pricing and driving home the desirability of diamonds.

“The uncertainty surrounding diamond prices and the upward trend in gold prices may pose challenges for our business,” says Shefi Diamonds’ Jain.

For Sandeep Shah, president of Sandeep Diamond, the dearth of consumer marketing to inspire diamond desire is a larger problem.

“There is a lack of creation of desire from the miners, retailers, and wholesaler—all of the stakeholders in the diamond and jewelry industry,” he says. “[The industry] is alienating consumers by not doing enough to attract them to stores to buy diamond jewelry—mined or lab grown.”

Trending Designs

Complicated pricing and origin issues aside, customers seek out stores for fresh diamond jewelry looks. Manufacturers and supplier partners rarely disappoint in this arena, turning out many an innovative diamond-encrusted design. And based on insights just shared by The Plumb Club community, next season’s styles are already shaping up to be memorable ones.

For starters, manufacturers who take the annual trek to the VicenzaOro fair in Italy in January routinely find artistry and craftsmanship from the country inspiring. Both Jasani and KGS Jewels sent teams to the fair in January 2023 to see the newness. Standouts included textured collections—“Textures were in the majority of designs,” says Lachish Awad, Jasani’s manager of customer service—and bezel-set diamonds as well as initial pendants. KGS’s Richard Bachu, vice president of sales, recalls the importance of rope and beaded designs in yellow gold, which he expects retailers to embrace in 2024.

Lali Jewels

As far as motifs, insects are still trending, as are geometric shapes, minimalist styles, spiritual influences, and flora and animals. Valerie Fletcher, vice president of design and product development at ODI, is debuting a CoExist collection for 2024 that includes “universal symbols of peace, enlightenment, and balance along with religious icons,” she says.

She didn’t need to look far for inspiration—simply turning on the news was reason enough to create this inspiring collection.

“The designs are not only about personal expression, but also symbols of connection, commonality, and community,” she adds.

At KGS, ladybugs and dragonflies are in favor, but not this winged creature: the butterfly. It’s been trending heavily for some time now, so a break is in order. “We’re going to stay away from them,” Bachu notes.

And while not a trend, something his firm will explore is event-driven collections. Say, for Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, and the like. Options include diamond bracelets for Mom, diamond pendants for sweethearts, and diamond cufflinks for Dad, among other possibilities.

“We want to develop collections that directly speak to consumers on these occasions,” he says. “While we’re making jewelry all year round, customers are buying for those specific times.”

Retailer and end user feedback drive other decisions. Based on this input at Ostbye, Sparkle Lane was born. It’s a diamond-set sterling silver line of whimsical yet classic touches like fluted accents. “We worked with a few of our top retailers and created this based on their suggestions,” observes Theresa Namie, merchandise manager.

Other top-of-mind design trends include bold gold, diamond hoops, signet rings, and medallion-style pendants. In the gender-neutral department, styling is masculine but smaller than men’s pieces and includes dog tags, chunky link bracelets, and huggie earrings.

Prices, too, have an influence on collection directions. For example, the decreasing prices of mined and lab-grown diamonds are causing manufacturers like Jasani’s Awad to lower their diamond jewelry prices. “Corrections are also in process for past collections,” he says.

         Jasani

And with the price of gold increasing, daintier styles are inevitable. Plus, platinum prices have never been so attractive—especially when compared to gold. That’s why ODI is answering their retailer’s call for classic platinum designs with mined diamonds (think hearts, crosses, and anniversary bands among other styles).

Another category that’s trending for the manufacturer? Luxury silver and diamond pieces like Cuban links pavĂ©d in rocks.

Finally, with lab-grown diamond prices in a freefall, the relative calm of the mined diamond space—minus a less-triggering price drop phenomenon—presents an opportunity for wedding jewelry maker Novell. Sales manager Rick Mulholland points to its Diamond Delite Collection of machine-set diamond numbers, with appealing styling and the intrigue of the natural diamond story.

“Each diamond carries a unique narrative, often born from a remote mining location, and can be passed down through generations,” he says. “This rich history and heritage can significantly elevate the value of a natural diamond.”  

Lab Grown Landscape

Prices are fluctuating in the diamond market for both mined and lab-growns. As awareness of man-made diamonds spreads and intrigues consumers, availability and better qualities have mushroomed, spreading faster through the market than a California wildfire. This scenario has led to drastic lab-grown price drops, as typically happens with the evolution of any new technology and paved the way for a decrease in mined-diamond desire among consumers, according to some manufacturers. Once shoppers learned that they could spend less for a bigger, more beautiful lab-grown diamond, prices on mined diamonds dropped, too.

To Sandeep Shah, president of Sandeep Diamond, the price of mined diamonds is inconsequential. The bigger issue, he says, is diminished demand at the retail level for mined diamonds “coupled with the cannibalization of mined-diamond demand by lab-growns,” he says.

Shefi Diamonds

Others agree, including David Gaynes, vice president of sales at Indigo Jewelry, and Surbhi Jain, head of marketing at Shefi Diamonds.

“The emergence and growth of the lab-grown diamond sector has introduced a level of instability to the overall diamond market,” says Jain.

KGS’ Jewels’ Richard Bachu, vice president of sales, has a firm grasp of the mined-versus-lab-grown landscape. Lab-growns give consumers a bigger bang for their buck, and retailers can make a healthy profit. And the mall merchants who stock his lab-grown diamond jewelry are seeing twentysomething shoppers coming into stores to buy.

“They normally shop on Blue Nile, James Allen, or Brilliant Earth, but they’re going into mall jewelers now because of lab-growns,” observes Bachu. “A consumer can get a 2 ct. lab-grown for the price of a small natural; they’re not thinking about what it will be worth in two years. Older customers love lab-growns because they can buy a ring and still take a trip.”

Shah agrees. “This is a consumer-driven business,” he says. “Clients dictate what sells.”

As far as pricing, there’s no doubt that lab-growns and jewelry set with them have dropped, but their “retail prices have not dropped as much as wholesale prices on a percentage basis,” says Gaynes.

Jeffrey Cohen, president of Craft Lab Grown Diamonds, agrees. “Over the next 12–18 months, I expect the gap between wholesale and retail prices to shrink, meaning we will see significant price decreases at the retail level,” he says.

       Ostbye

In terms of volume sold, that situation is a different story, says Lachish Awad, manager of customer service at Jasani. “While sales of mined diamond jewelry have fallen, sales of lab-grown diamonds have increased,” he says.

Because of this volatility, manufacturers like Ostbye are leaning more into mined diamond designs.

“It’s easier to maintain the pricing for our retailers,” says Theresa Namie, merchandise manager. “Price is our biggest factor, as it fluctuates so much, making it harder for the retailer to invest in lab-grown diamonds.”

ODI, too, is sticking with naturals. First, the firm believes in the intrinsic value of mined diamonds and their value to source communities when responsibly obtained. Second, ODI wants to ensure that the consumer has the best information available to make an informed purchasing decision.

Cohen, a supporter of both mined and natural diamonds, knows there’s a place for both.

“It has always been our strategy to sell either mined or lab grown based upon each’s unique selling proposition and strengths,” he says. “There are great opportunities available for both, as long as approached the ‘right’ way.”

 

Complicated pricing and origin issues aside, customers seek out stores for fresh diamond jewelry looks. Manufacturers and supplier partners rarely disappoint in this arena, turning out many an innovative diamond-encrusted design. And based on insights just shared by The Plumb Club community, next season’s styles are already shaping up to be memorable ones.

For starters, manufacturers who take the annual trek to the VicenzaOro fair in Italy in January routinely find artistry and craftsmanship from the country inspiring. Both Jasani and KGS Jewels sent teams to the fair in January 2023 to see the newness. Standouts included textured collections—“Textures were in the majority of designs,” says Lachish Awad, Jasani’s manager of customer service—and bezel-set diamonds as well as initial pendants. KGS’s Richard Bachu, vice president of sales, recalls the importance of rope and beaded designs in yellow gold, which he expects retailers to embrace in 2024.

Lali Jewels

As far as motifs, insects are still trending, as are geometric shapes, minimalist styles, spiritual influences, and flora and animals. Valerie Fletcher, vice president of design and product development at ODI, is debuting a CoExist collection for 2024 that includes “universal symbols of peace, enlightenment, and balance along with religious icons,” she says.

She didn’t need to look far for inspiration—simply turning on the news was reason enough to create this inspiring collection.

“The designs are not only about personal expression, but also symbols of connection, commonality, and community,” she adds.

At KGS, ladybugs and dragonflies are in favor, but not this winged creature: the butterfly. It’s been trending heavily for some time now, so a break is in order. “We’re going to stay away from them,” Bachu notes.

And while not a trend, something his firm will explore is event-driven collections. Say, for Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, and the like. Options include diamond bracelets for Mom, diamond pendants for sweethearts, and diamond cufflinks for Dad, among other possibilities.

“We want to develop collections that directly speak to consumers on these occasions,” he says. “While we’re making jewelry all year round, customers are buying for those specific times.”

Retailer and end user feedback drive other decisions. Based on this input at Ostbye, Sparkle Lane was born. It’s a diamond-set sterling silver line of whimsical yet classic touches like fluted accents. “We worked with a few of our top retailers and created this based on their suggestions,” observes Theresa Namie, merchandise manager.

Other top-of-mind design trends include bold gold, diamond hoops, signet rings, and medallion-style pendants. In the gender-neutral department, styling is masculine but smaller than men’s pieces and includes dog tags, chunky link bracelets, and huggie earrings.

Prices, too, have an influence on collection directions. For example, the decreasing prices of mined and lab-grown diamonds are causing manufacturers like Jasani’s Awad to lower their diamond jewelry prices.

“Corrections are also in process for past collections,” he says.

         Jasani

And with the price of gold increasing, daintier styles are inevitable. Plus, platinum prices have never been so attractive—especially when compared to gold. That’s why ODI is answering their retailer’s call for classic platinum designs with mined diamonds (think hearts, crosses, and anniversary bands among other styles).

Another category that’s trending for the manufacturer? Luxury silver and diamond pieces like Cuban links pavĂ©d in rocks.

Finally, with lab-grown diamond prices in a freefall, the relative calm of the mined diamond space—minus a less-triggering price drop phenomenon—presents an opportunity for wedding jewelry maker Novell. Sales manager Rick Mulholland points to its Diamond Delite Collection of machine-set diamond numbers, with appealing styling and the intrigue of the natural diamond story.

“Each diamond carries a unique narrative, often born from a remote mining location, and can be passed down through generations,” he says. “This rich history and heritage can significantly elevate the value of a natural diamond.”  

Prices are fluctuating in the diamond market for both mined and lab-growns. As awareness of man-made diamonds spreads and intrigues consumers, availability and better qualities have mushroomed, spreading faster through the market than a California wildfire. This scenario has led to drastic lab-grown price drops, as typically happens with the evolution of any new technology and paved the way for a decrease in mined-diamond desire among consumers, according to some manufacturers. Once shoppers learned that they could spend less for a bigger, more beautiful lab-grown diamond, prices on mined diamonds dropped, too.

To Sandeep Shah, president of Sandeep Diamond, the price of mined diamonds is inconsequential. The bigger issue, he says, is diminished demand at the retail level for mined diamonds “coupled with the cannibalization of mined-diamond demand by lab-growns,” he says.

Shefi Diamonds

Others agree, including David Gaynes, vice president of sales at Indigo Jewelry, and Surbhi Jain, head of marketing at Shefi Diamonds.

“The emergence and growth of the lab-grown diamond sector has introduced a level of instability to the overall diamond market,” says Jain.

KGS’ Jewels’ Richard Bachu, vice president of sales, has a firm grasp of the mined-versus-lab-grown landscape. Lab-growns give consumers a bigger bang for their buck, and retailers can make a healthy profit. And the mall merchants who stock his lab-grown diamond jewelry are seeing twentysomething shoppers coming into stores to buy.

“They normally shop on Blue Nile, James Allen, or Brilliant Earth, but they’re going into mall jewelers now because of lab-growns,” observes Bachu. “A consumer can get a 2 ct. lab-grown for the price of a small natural; they’re not thinking about what it will be worth in two years. Older customers love lab-growns because they can buy a ring and still take a trip.”

Shah agrees. “This is a consumer-driven business,” he says. “Clients dictate what sells.”

As far as pricing, there’s no doubt that lab-growns and jewelry set with them have dropped, but their “retail prices have not dropped as much as wholesale prices on a percentage basis,” says Gaynes.

Jeffrey Cohen, president of Craft Lab Grown Diamonds, agrees. “Over the next 12–18 months, I expect the gap between wholesale and retail prices to shrink, meaning we will see significant price decreases at the retail level,” he says.

In terms of volume sold, that situation is a different story, says Lachish Awad, manager of customer service at Jasani. “While sales of mined diamond jewelry have fallen, sales of lab-grown diamonds have increased,” he says.

Because of this volatility, manufacturers like Ostbye are leaning more into mined diamond designs.

“It’s easier to maintain the pricing for our retailers,” says Theresa Namie, merchandise manager. “Price is our biggest factor, as it fluctuates so much, making it harder for the retailer to invest in lab-grown diamonds.”

       Ostbye

ODI, too, is sticking with naturals. First, the firm believes in the intrinsic value of mined diamonds and their value to source communities when responsibly obtained. Second, ODI wants to ensure that the consumer has the best information available to make an informed purchasing decision.

Cohen, a supporter of both mined and natural diamonds, knows there’s a place for both.

“It has always been our strategy to sell either mined or lab grown based upon each’s unique selling proposition and strengths,” he says. “There are great opportunities available for both, as long as approached the ‘right’ way.”

Two major diamond centers—Russia and Israel—are in the grip of turmoil for different reasons that are equally disturbing to international jewelry markets. Sanctions against Russia and a looming ban on Russian-origin diamonds exceeding 1 carat in size have forced firms to scrutinize their diamond sourcing while cut and polished diamonds out of Israel have sometimes faced delays.

Jasani

Diamond imports from Russia have been banned in the U.S. since 2022, though those cut and polished in other countries have still gotten through because of the substantial transformation clause set in place by the government. The goal of that measure was to give time to businesses to find new sources.

Recent plans from industry groups aim to carry out the wishes of nations belonging to the Group of Seven (G7), which are determined to ban Russian diamonds entirely. And in an early December meeting, G7 members revealed they would introduce “import restrictions on non-industrial diamonds, mined, processed, or produced in Russia, by January 1, 2024, followed by more phased restrictions on the import of Russian diamonds processed in third countries targeting March 1, 2024.”

Further, G7 members who import large volumes of rough diamonds must establish “a robust traceability-based verification and certification mechanism for rough diamonds within the G7 by September 1, 2024.”

Some big players in U.S. jewelry manufacturing have been fielding compliance inquiries from select clients.

                                                             Novell

“Many of our customers are insisting on stones which are not of Russian origin,” says Lachish Awad, manager of customer service at Jasani.

As a sightholder, KGS Jewels obtains most of its diamonds from De Beers’ sources, including a new manufacturing facility in Botswana. Richard Bachu, vice president of sales, says the Russia issue isn’t really affecting KGS’s business, though questions do periodically arise from clients. “They ask if we are in compliance to make sure they are protected,” he says.

For Shefi Diamonds, the Russia-origin question is even less of an issue. “The majority of the diamonds we use are sourced from Australia and then cut in India,” explains Surbhi Jain, head of marketing. “Therefore, the potential impact on our operations is somewhat mitigated by the diversified nature of our supply chain.”

And given that Novell “isn’t in the center stone business,” says sales manager Rick Mulholland—Novell makes wedding bands—both wars have had minimal impact on operations. Similarly, Awad, who sources from Israel, a hub for cutting important stones, is relieved that his business, too, hasn’t (yet) been affected.

According to some interviewees, bigger issues than these wars—if you can believe it—exist in pricing and driving home the desirability of diamonds.

ODI/Original Designs

“The uncertainty surrounding diamond prices and the upward trend in gold prices may pose challenges for our business,” says Shefi Diamonds’ Jain.

For Sandeep Shah, president of Sandeep Diamond, the dearth of consumer marketing to inspire diamond desire is a larger problem.

“There is a lack of creation of desire from the miners, retailers, and wholesaler—all of the stakeholders in the diamond and jewelry industry,” he says. “[The industry] is alienating consumers by not doing enough to attract them to stores to buy diamond jewelry—mined or lab grown.”