Jewels for Summer

When vacation season rolls around, so do the colors and themes you’d expect to see in resort wear. Blue, of course, takes top billing, while white and pastel shades aren’t far behind in popularity. Pearls and blue topaz are also among top choices for summer adornment, while recognizable themes like flip flops and sea life are another easy sell for merchants, particularly in beach and lake towns.

“We find that lighter looks and demi-fine assortments work best during summer months,” says Sam Hupp, vice president of sales and marketing for Paris 1901, a division of Prime Art & Jewel.

Pearl-accented stud earrings and pendants may be among the most reliable summer sellers, given the cultured pearls’ unbreakable ties to the sea and freshwater lakes and rivers. Set in silver or karat gold, pearl jewelry is both trending—everywhere in fashion and in the lines of manufacturers who aren’t typically proponents—and classic, putting it in an enviable position. “We put a new spin on pearls that can provide value for retailers,” says Phillip Gabriel Maroof, vice president of marketing and design for the Royal Chain Group.

And while many shoppers think yellow gold for its warm color against tan skin, platinum’s recent pricing, cool appearance, and incredible properties is giving gold some competition.

“I love it for its strength,” says Robyn Fields, vice president of sales for Goldstar Jewellery. “No metal can match it for the security of your diamonds.”

Valerie Fletcher of ODI is also a fan for reasons too many to count. “Platinum embodies the enduring, pure, and timeless qualities of true love, making it a natural choice for expressing romantic sentiments and commemorating special moments,” says the vice president of design and product development.

Learn more below about what’s ideal to position for summer sales.

 

Pearl Trip

The aquatic origins of cultured pearls make them the defacto gem of summer. Pearls are also a traditional look that’s being worn in more modern ways.

Lali Jewels’ Perilynn Glasner confirms that pearls, particularly cultured freshwaters in a variety of colors, are perfect for nearly all designs.

“Pearls are a classic and never go out of style since they have been modernized for today’s consumer,” she says. “We have a collection of multicolor pearls which have a soft elegance to them. This helps elevate your spring or summer style.”

As many know, 100% of the product produced by Imperial has pearls, from studs to fashion items.

“Many designs are influenced by trends in the jewelry world which we’ll interpret in pearl,” explains Kathy Grenier, vice president of business development. “We create specialty collections, such as Weddings, complete with display marketing.”

Manufacturer Brevani steers clear of classic pearl looks but does use the gem in nontraditional designs. They do so, according to Allison Peck, director of operations, to combat dated stereotypes. “It helps that recently pearls have been more mainstream, being worn by both men and women,” she says.

Phillip Gabriel Maroof, vice president of marketing and design for the Royal Chain Group, notes the company doesn’t use a lot of pearls in its karat-gold jewelry—“Less than 5% of our assortment contains pearls,” he says—but that figure is growing.

“We generally use freshwater pearls,” he continues. “After Harry Styles donned them, we think stereotypes have gone out the door! We modernize our pearl looks by utilizing them as accents in our gold jewelry, mixing them with trendy settings and combinations to make the stone more adaptable in fashion.”

Mastoloni Pearls’ company principal Fran Mastoloni agrees.

“There seems to be a common misconception about pearls, that they are not for everyone,” he says. His family’s 80-plus-year-old brand, however, has never viewed them as dated or for only one segment of the population. “Just as every pearl is distinct, so is the individual. There exists a pearl and pearl style for every person—from the conservative to the cutting-edge.”

New pearl jewelry designs touch on all the mainstream jewelry trends. Half-and-half necklaces containing pearls and other gems, or gold and silver links, are a hit among many. Maroof makes both paperclip necklaces and beaded numbers with pearls. Mastoloni recently debuted ribbed effects in gold with freshwater pearls and diamonds, while Imperial offers their interpretation of a bar-style necklace with their favorite gem.

Brevani’s recently unveiled freshwater pearl collection features pearls that are illusion-set with diamonds as well as new mother-of-pearl styles. Given they’re so new, retailer feedback isn’t yet available, but the Brevani team members are already fans. “The response from our office staff is extremely positive,” says Peck.

At Shefi Diamonds, pearls are part of its fashion-forward collections. These include pearls set with diamond-accented motifs like owls, snowflakes, starfish, and more. Plus, a new display program is on the horizon for clients who like the offerings.

Meanwhile, no one should forget that pearl jewelry requires cleaning, just like any other type of jewelry. It’s a point that, despite the popularity of pearls, says Heather Brown, vice president of content and editorial for The Kingswood Company, many do not know.

“Pearls, like other softer gemstones, should be cleaned with a gentle professional jewelry cleaning formula,” she explains. “Strung pearls should not be soaked in a cleaning formula, so use a jewelry cleaning stick or wipe. Providing education about how to safely clean purchases, plus offering the right products, is a win-win for jewelers and customers.”

 

Platinum’s Properties Sizzle

With the price of gold trading at more than twice that of platinum, many in jewelry have given the rare and pure naturally white metal more prominent placement in lines—and not just bridal.

“While some consumers may view platinum as a traditional metal to be used only for bridal jewelry, it’s actually great for everyday wear,” says Valerie Fletcher, vice president of design and product development for ODI. That’s why her firm recently unveiled a Platinum Classics collection containing diamond jewelry staples like tennis bracelets, hoops, halo pendants, and studs as well as hearts, crosses, and other fashion pendants.

Platinum’s positive attributes are abundant. It’s strong, denser and heavier than gold, won’t lose metal over time like karat-gold jewels, never requires rhodium plating because it is naturally white, and it’s hypoallergenic, making “it wearable for people with sensitive skin or allergies to metals that are found in gold alloys, adds Fletcher. “White gold is plated to look white and will need to be replated over time.”

On the flip side of all the praise is the long-repeated misconception that the metal scratches easily. That’s not true, says Rick Mulholland, Sales and Marketing, of 41-year-old Continental/Novell Global. “Our experience is that platinum is fairly resistant to deep marks,” he says. “Minor scratches can be easily buffed out.”

And while manufacturing in platinum is more expensive and challenging than gold and requires excellent craftsmanship, the upside is the creation of “substantial and durable” jewels that will “hold stones securely and retain beauty and value over generations,” continues Fletcher.

Next stop for platinum jewelry? Family heirlooms status.

“It’s interesting—if you take the same ring and make it in both 18k white gold and platinum, at today’s metal markets, the final cost of the platinum ring will only be about 10-15% higher,” says Fletcher. “This is even with the higher purity, heavier metal weight, and more expensive labor. When you factor in the natural beauty, wearability, longevity and low maintenance of platinum, it becomes a very easy percentage to overcome.”

For sure, the cost difference between gold and platinum now is negligible. Manufacturers like Jeff Levitt of Cynergy Trading recall when a blank platinum mounting was three times the price of a blank 14k gold one.

“With the current upside-down metal market, the premium for platinum over 14k gold is the smallest I have ever seen, making platinum a superb choice—not only for superior quality but for value,” says the vice president of merchandising. “For these reasons we are seeing an increased interest in platinum not only for sold orders but also for stocked items.”

At 76-year-old Frederick Goldman, Inc., platinum has long had a place in every one of its bridal jewelry collections. So, it’s not surprising that its newest line, the Goldman Luxe Collection, also capitalizes on all the attributes the metal has to offer.

“We are targeting our higher-end customers with platinum engagement ring semi-mounts featuring significant center stones, starting at 2.00 carats,” says Tom Schwartz, vice president of marketing. “Additionally, we have introduced an updated assortment of platinum wedding bands featuring modern, architecturally influenced styles incorporating diamonds. Handcrafted in North America, each platinum band is designed to provide an elevated look and exude luxury, catering to the discriminating buyer.”

Many other manufacturers also use platinum in the commitment jewelry category—think Goldstar Jewellery, which uses it with better diamonds “for an elevated collection,” says Robyn Fields, vice president of sales. Ditto for IDDNY and its Moze bridal styles. “Platinum is perceived as special, and what is more special than your engagement ring?” queries Manan Mehta, business development manager.

Continental/Novell Global , too, has long championed the metal for its bridal collections. “It’s a first option for designs at our trunk shows and to retailers who prefer to stock live samples,” says Mulholland.

That’s why his firm recently unveiled the Solitaire Plus Collection of reimagined solitaire engagement rings offering twists on traditional looks and discretely placed diamond or colored gemstone accents that only the wearer sees. Continental/Novell Global loves platinum for its distinct properties, but Mulholland may be biased about its look. “Diamonds and colored gemstones simply look better when set in platinum,” he says.

Regularly clean your platinum jewels to keep them looking their best. Mulholland suggests mild soap and water while The Kingswood Company’s Heather Brown, vice president of content and editorial, advises using a professional ammoniated jewelry formula. “Send customers home with cleaner to keep a new ring sparkling,” she says.

Summertime Trends

The heat of the summer months ensures that people will dress in less, including lighter weight fine jewelry. When the temperatures rise, nobody wants to be weighed down, which is why sea-inspired gemstone hues and delicate yellow gold chains that complement bronzed skin tones.

That’s why Brevani’s Allison Peck, director of operations, sells dainty, layerable looks in summer—“because of the heat,” she says. “I don’t want to be walking around in 80-plus degree weather wearing a heavy gold chain that is going to stick to me once I start sweating,” she continues. “Light and airy is absolutely more comfortable!”

For metal type, many think silver for summer, but those styles tend to be chunkier than gold. When choosing gold jewelry, makers say that many shoppers go for yellow as opposed to white, so styles are not confused with sterling. “When someone spends money on a gold piece, they want it to look like gold,” adds Peck.

Perilynn Glasner, design and marketing director for Lali Jewels, has finer and daintier chains and pastel colors of gemstones to accommodate summer-minded shoppers. Of the latter, think aquamarine and blue topaz “because they match the beautiful hues of the ocean,” she says.

It’s a similar tale at Brevani—“Blue topaz has that summery vibe,” says Peck—and Shefi Diamonds, whose sales of blue topaz are strong for summer. “The ocean is where everyone wants to be in summertime,” adds Peck.

Chatham, meanwhile, has a more exotic blue option: lab-grown Paraíba-color spinel. “It’s a striking color that takes your mind straight to the Mediterranean waters, says Monica McDaniel, vice president, marketing, Chatham. “Like the highly desirable Paraíba tourmaline, this hue displays a richly saturated seafoam color.”

Other pastel shades like amethyst, peridot, white sapphire, white pearls, and rose quartz are also ideal for summer wardrobes.

“Any of the lighter color stones do well,” confirms Sam Hupp, vice president of sales and marketing for Paris 1901, a division of Prime Art & Jewel. “Seeing a multi-stone demi-fine bracelet in the summer is very common. Even earrings with multi-stone looks do well. Both tend to give a casual vibe that people embrace.”

Another color consideration? Tonal looks such as blue and purple. “These bring a nice, updated palette to the gemstone category,” explains Jessica Zerega, merchandising director, Goldstar Jewellery.

To no one’s surprise, beachy motifs sell well not just in cruise and resort areas but nationwide and year-round because of what they call to mind—vacation. From sea horses to seashells, flip flops, and more, there’s a symbol that will speak to every fan of summer. To wit, Shefi Diamonds’ Oceanity collection is “a beach lover’s paradise,” says Surbhi Jain, marketing director. Among its best sellers? Starfish and palm trees—“perfect for embracing the seaside spirit,” she says.

Non-water-inspired themes like flowers, butterflies, and the sun are also desirable classics for warm-weather wear.

“Summer brings sunny skies and warm nights!” says McDaniel. “That is why our Celestial Collection, comprising stars, the sun, and moon, are some of the most popular pieces during the summer months. Our 14k yellow gold sun pendant featuring lab-grown diamonds is dainty and feminine, the ideal motif to enhance any summer look.”

And while light and easy is the seasonal mantra from June through August, this doesn’t mean that layered looks are off the table; layers are fine with appropriate styles and body placements.

For example, multiple ear piercings are super popular and won’t weigh anyone down. Suggest this trio to clients—a stud earring, a delicate huggie, and a larger chunkier hoop earring, a threesome that “creates a nice balanced look,” observes Zerega.

Additionally, crop tops, capri pants, and sandals reveal more opportunities for bedazzled sections of the body in the form of anklets, toe rings, belly chains, and belly button rings. Bracelets and light pendants, too, are options, but rings are a harder summer sell. Why? Sunscreen application says Hupp.

“Often someone will have to remove the rings to apply, where with a pendant, bracelet, or anklet, they wouldn’t have to,” he says. “During summer months, most people want something that’s light, clean, and casual to wear on vacation.”

Summer jewels often become travel jewels, asserts Heather Brown, vice president of content and editorial for The Kingswood Company. She urges merchants to offer portable jewelry cleaning options such as wipes or a solution in a compact stick form. These, she maintains, “are easy to tuck into luggage or a purse to keep summer jewelry sparkling on the go.”