As a graphic color story unfolded on runways during Paris Fashion Week in late February through early March, it seemed fitting that two-tone jewelry played a key role. Fall 2023 ready-to-wear collections featured many black-and-white color combinations that called for the same yin and yang in accessories. To wit, many chunky chain layers and oversize earrings had opposites-attract vibes in colors and materials across the range of Parisian couture brands.
Equity Diamond Brokers
In the U.S. fine-jewelry space, there are plenty of brands with two-tone options to adorn stateside attire, which is inevitably influenced by runway looks.
Uses of two-tone metals or a metal mixed with other materials like ceramic or enamel allow makers and wearers to benefit from both versatility and price, giving a less expensive medium like sterling silver a taste of a pricier one like 18k gold. This is something Balinese-inspired jewelry maker Samuel Behnam of Samuel B. Collection has capitalized on since the inception of his brand, setting strategically placed 18k gold accents as dots in designs, hammered gold sheets as bangle or drop earring focal points, or as bracelet links that connect to sterling ones. Two-tone looks are also an effect that others have borrowed with success.
At Equity Diamond Brokers, several newer fashion collections incorporate both karat gold and silver for the higher perceived value it gives pieces, according to Allen Rosenel, chief marketing officer. “We have added it into our vintage jewelry designs as well as our Heritage and Heritage Diamond Rope collections,” he notes.
In the bridal jewelry category, two-tone designs can illustrate unions. This is the case with manufacturer Ostbye, which offers two-tone white and yellow and white and rose gold looks in its bridal collections. Designs feature metal-intense and melee-accented intertwining segments that embrace center stones. In commitment bands, two-tone offerings in a variety of metals have been the norm, especially for brands like Benchmark. In its lines, combinations of noble and contemporary metals allow designers to paint vivid imagery on bands, such as mountains, rocks, or wood grain for outdoorsman, fantasy-influenced effects (think dragons), or more classic two-tone designs.
At Mastoloni Pearls, two- and even three-tone looks can enhance gemstones in designs, particularly when used to make certain colors pop. In the brands’ newly released Asttrata Collection, for example, abstract and organic shapes center around negative space, white cultured pearls, and brilliant-cut white diamonds in 18k yellow and white gold. The diamonds are set in white gold to make them stand out more.
“Two-tone looks offer wearers the best of both worlds and the versatility to layer with either metal color to create a statement that is all their own,” says Fran Mastoloni, one of the company principals.
Perilynn Glasner of Lali Jewels agrees and uses two-tone effects in pieces to make certain elements more prominent. In fact, styles in a soon-to-be-released men’s jewelry collection from the brand will feature two-tone metals with gemstones. “Besides being on trend, two-tone metals create a unique look that gives you the opportunity to mix, match, and stack styles,” says the marketing and design director.