Cultured pearls are a classic gem, but they continue to appear in myriad new jewelry collections in surprisingly modern silhouettes. High jewelry designers have been pairing them with spikes, in layers, inset with more gems, and in many other bold, uncommon creations. The sometimes-dramatic results may be too much for some, but they’re inspiring to many and serve as fresh reminders that grandma’s favorite gem is still desirable, particularly for the next generation of collectors.

Prime Art & Jewel

Amish Shah is familiar with the pearl’s popularity—even though it’s not what his firm sells. The founder of ALTR makes lab-grown diamond jewelry but works with fashion houses who use cultured pearls; together, their creations are poised for a big reveal.

“ALTR is working with a designer in high fashion on a signature line,” he teases. “It’s a fusion of cultured pearls and lab-grown diamond jewelry and is an evolution in jewelry, considering what is already out there.”

In today’s market, trends in pearl jewelry include contemporary uses of traditional white pearls, chokers, cultured black Tahitian pearls with black rhodium-plated metals, and pearls paired with funky motifs and forms—think paper clips and stars atop cage-style designs or unusual looks of hoops. Baroque-shape pearls are another popular look. Jewelry manufacturers continue to take note, inspired to offer up their own unique interpretations.

Consider the Tin Cup necklace—made famous by Rene Russo in the movie of the same name. It’s a station-style necklace with a pearl at roughly one-inch intervals that has inspired ample other variations. Today, it’s a staple and one that continues to evolve according to every new designer’s eye.

Cultured freshwater pearl Tin Cup necklaces are a big part of Lali Jewels’ inventory.

  Lali Jewels

“We brought it back, but it’s not like your grandmother’s pearls,” says Adam Bassalali, co-founder and vice president. “It’s been very popular, so we have matching bracelets and drop earrings. We offer a new take on a classic.”

Those new looks include ombré tones of freshwater pearls as well as baroque shapes of cultured white and Tahitian South Sea pearls. He also has bar styles on hand in white, with one large center pearl flanked by quartets of smaller ones. Imperial Pearl offered some bar and Tin Cup styles as well at the most recent JCK Las Vegas trade show. Perhaps most exciting about Lali’s Tin Cups? They all now come with diamond-cut chains.

“They give them a bit of an edge,” he adds.

Edgy pearls are an idea that Brevani’s Allison Peck, creative director, can also get behind.

“While we’ve always offered classic pearl options, we’ve recently started offering more-modern, fashion-forward pearl styles that can be worn every day,” she explains. “We’re offering an overall modern style that challenges pearl stereotypes. Pearls aren’t just for weddings and ‘country club’ gatherings anymore. We’re finding that when styled, pearls can be sophisticated but at the same time edgy and on-trend.”

Brevani

For Imperial, edgy translates in its new styles of sterling silver and cultured Tahitian pearl jewels, including some baroque pearl chokers. The brand also added equestrian motifs, extended its petal designs into silver, added lab-grown diamonds to pearl designs, and beefed up its yellow gold offerings, as did Brevani. Brevani’s newest collections include plenty of yellow gold and cultured white freshwater pearls with diamond accents.

All of Imperial’s merchandising and displays at the show were rich in freshness and spoke to the “real way that people buy, wear, and sell” pearl designs, according to Kathy Grenier, vice president of business development. “We’re telling cohesive stories in a way that we think is beautiful.”