Jonathan Cohen, president of IBGoodman, Newport, Kentucky, reflects this trend in its latest collection for women; Zé features iridescent blue-green abalone pearl, opalescent pink and white mother-of-pearl, and exotic hardwood inlay in thematic designs like wildlife, flowers, organic shapes, and spiritual icons. The pieces are set in silver or gold, some with diamond accents.

Demand for cultured pearls remains strong, as pearls have become a traditional favorite that takes a modern approach to jewelry design. Dana Cali, marketing and communications for Mastoloni, shares the bestsellers for this New York pearl house, like new variations on hoops, pendant necklaces, and wrap-style rings.

“We’re continuing to focus on the female self-purchaser and versatility,” says Cali. “Most new designs are simplistic with main themes/design profiles including multi-pearl designs; bezel-set diamond accents; cages; hoop drops and huggie-style hoops; open-style, abstract designs; asymmetry; stacked illusion rings.”

Collins cites a focus on energizing and restorative colors (especially shades of blue, green, purple, orange, and red), with fancy color sapphire, topaz, and garnets among the preferred gem complements. She adds that Emerald is another stone to watch, signifying nature, balance, comfort, and growth.

Birthstones Bestsellers

Correa underscores birthstones remain the perfect draw for personalization, with these traditional gems among the most meaningful in jewelry design. Their staying power is in their broad appeal to classic and fashion-forward style sensibilities, relates Theresa Namie, Merchandise Manager Ostbye, Minneapolis, Minnesota. Bezels, 3/4/5-stone bands, and stackable rings are among the favorite styles in gem-set jewelry design. Namie notes that women wear their birthstones and those of the ones they love.

It’s no wonder gems like topaz, amethyst, citrine, and garnet continue to be among the leading products for self-purchase, says Allison Peck for the New York-based Color Merchants. Consumers are most familiar and comfortable with these gems, many of which come in multiple colors like sapphire, garnet, and topaz, and are all imbued with meaning. With Classic Blue the Color of the Year, blue gemstones like sapphire, topaz, and tanzanite remain among the favorites in jewelry design, reports Amanda Gizzi, director of public relations and special events for Jewelers of America. But it’s joined by various warm tones in the orange and red family that are popular this fall. “Orangey Amberglow lends itself to mandarin garnets, fire opals, and orange sapphire. Red-hued Samba, Fired Brick, and purple Magenta can be seen in rubies and garnets. Sandstone, Peach Nougat, and Rose Tan exhibit shades of light pink and neutral tans making way for gems like morganite and rose quartz. And Ultramarine Green brings to mind deep blue-green tourmalines.”

Many expect amethyst to be a popular winter gem due to its intense violet color that can vary from light to dark in shade. A fresh combination for the season is amethyst with peridot set in yellow gold and color stories in berry hues. Peck sees a lot of excitement for color in fancy cuts (particularly elongated baguettes, ovals, marquise, and pear) and non-traditional shapes (i.e., trillion, trapezoid, and half moon), as well as exciting settings, like an east-west ring. Multi-color settings remain popular as consumers embrace jewelry that enhances their mood and pops on screen. Collins cites ombré and colorful tassels with vibrant, translucent stones on-trend.