Platinum’s Properties Sizzle

With the price of gold trading at more than twice that of platinum, many in jewelry have given the rare and pure naturally white metal more prominent placement in lines—and not just bridal.

“While some consumers may view platinum as a traditional metal to be used only for bridal jewelry, it’s actually great for everyday wear,” says Valerie Fletcher, vice president of design and product development for ODI. That’s why her firm recently unveiled a Platinum Classics collection containing diamond jewelry staples like tennis bracelets, hoops, halo pendants, and studs as well as hearts, crosses, and other fashion pendants.

ODI / Original Designs

Platinum’s positive attributes are abundant. It’s strong, denser and heavier than gold, won’t lose metal over time like karat-gold jewels, never requires rhodium plating because it is naturally white, and it’s hypoallergenic, making “it wearable for people with sensitive skin or allergies to metals that are found in gold alloys, adds Fletcher. “White gold is plated to look white and will need to be replated over time.”

On the flip side of all the praise is the long-repeated misconception that the metal scratches easily. That’s not true, says Rick Mulholland, Sales and Marketing, of 41-year-old Continental / Novell Global. “Our experience is that platinum is fairly resistant to deep marks,” he says. “Minor scratches can be easily buffed out.”

And while manufacturing in platinum is more expensive and challenging than gold and requires excellent craftsmanship, the upside is the creation of “substantial and durable” jewels that will “hold stones securely and retain beauty and value over generations,” continues Fletcher.

Next stop for platinum jewelry? Family heirlooms status.

“It’s interesting—if you take the same ring and make it in both 18k white gold and platinum, at today’s metal markets, the final cost of the platinum ring will only be about 10-15% higher,” says Fletcher. “This is even with the higher purity, heavier metal weight, and more expensive labor. When you factor in the natural beauty, wearability, longevity and low maintenance of platinum, it becomes a very easy percentage to overcome.”

For sure, the cost difference between gold and platinum now is negligible. Manufacturers like Jeff Levitt of Cynergy Trading recall when a blank platinum mounting was three times the price of a blank 14k gold one.

Continental/Novell Global

“With the current upside-down metal market, the premium for platinum over 14k gold is the smallest I have ever seen, making platinum a superb choice—not only for superior quality but for value,” says the vice president of merchandising. “For these reasons we are seeing an increased interest in platinum not only for sold orders but also for stocked items.”

At 76-year-old Frederick Goldman, Inc., platinum has long had a place in every one of its bridal jewelry collections. So, it’s not surprising that its newest line, the Goldman Luxe Collection, also capitalizes on all the attributes the metal has to offer.

“We are targeting our higher-end customers with platinum engagement ring semi-mounts featuring significant center stones, starting at 2.00 carats,” says Tom Schwartz, vice president of marketing. “Additionally, we have introduced an updated assortment of platinum wedding bands featuring modern, architecturally influenced styles incorporating diamonds. Handcrafted in North America, each platinum band is designed to provide an elevated look and exude luxury, catering to the discriminating buyer.”

Many other manufacturers also use platinum in the commitment jewelry category—think Goldstar Jewellery, which uses it with better diamonds “for an elevated collection,” says Robyn Fields, vice president of sales. Ditto for IDDNY and its Moze bridal styles. “Platinum is perceived as special, and what is more special than your engagement ring?” queries Manan Mehta, business development manager.

Continental / Novell Global, too, has long championed the metal for its bridal collections. “It’s a first option for designs at our trunk shows and to retailers who prefer to stock live samples,” says Mulholland.

That’s why his firm recently unveiled the Solitaire Plus Collection of reimagined solitaire engagement rings offering twists on traditional looks and discretely placed diamond or colored gemstone accents that only the wearer sees. Continental / Novell Global loves platinum for its distinct properties, but Mulholland may be biased about its look. “Diamonds and colored gemstones simply look better when set in platinum,” he says.

Frederick Goldman

Regularly clean your platinum jewels to keep them looking their best. Mulholland suggests mild soap and water while The Kingswood Company’s Heather Brown, vice president of content and editorial, advises using a professional ammoniated jewelry formula. “Send customers home with cleaner to keep a new ring sparkling,” she says.